Coq au vin 90

This is a streamlined, 90-minute version from Cook's Illustrated magazine of a classic French recipe designed to make the meat of a tough, old rooster (coq) palatable by simmering it for hours in wine (vin). Streamlining consists of using soft boneless meat, compensating for the lack of bones with broth, and parallelizing some steps by the means of a second pot.

If using frozen pearl onions (which helps avoid the tedium of boiling and peeling fresh ones), start thawing them well before you start cooking. Reserve 1 Tbsp of wine for later and simmer the rest for about 30 minutes with broth, parsley sprigs, thyme, and bay leaf. At the end there should be 3 cups of liquid left.

Meanwhile, cook bacon in a large Dutch oven (aka casserole) over medium heat until browned. Remove the bacon and collect the rendered fat. Season chicken pieces with salt and pepper and brown them in the Dutch oven, about 2 minutes on each side, in 2 Tbsp of bacon fat (probably in 2 batches). Alternatively, you can skip bacon and use a neutral vegetable oil for browning.

Melt 3 Tbsp butter in the now-empty Dutch oven over medium-high heat. As foaming subsides, add pearl onions and mushrooms and cook 6-8 minutes. Reduce heat and cook garlic for under a minute; then cook tomato paste and flour for a minute. Pour in the reduced wine, add the chicken, the bacon (if using), and 1/4 tsp of pepper. Bring the Dutch oven to a boil, reduce heat and simmer, covered, for at least 25 minutes, stirring halfway though.

Remove the tender chicken with a slotted spoon. Increase heat to medium-high and simmer the sauce for at least 5 minutes until thick and glossy and measures 3 1/4 cups. Off heat, stir in 2 Tbsp of butter and the reserved Tbsp of wine. Return chicken to pot, top with minced parsley, and serve.

- 1 bottle red wine (medium-bodied, e.g., Pinot Noir or Grenache)
- 2 cups low-sodium chicken broth
- 10 sprigs fresh parsley & 2 Tbsp minced parsley leaves
- 2 sprigs fresh thyme
- 1 bay leaf
- 4 oz bacon, diced, or ? butter
- 2 1/2 lbs boneless chicken thighs, but in half crosswise
- 5 Tbsp unsalted butter
- 24 pearl onions, peeled fresh ones or thawed frozen ones, or one diced onion
- 8 oz cremini mushrooms, halved or quartered, if large
- 2 garlic cloves, minced
- 1 Tbsp tomato paste
- 2 tablespoons flour